photos

Scuba Diving Magazine’s 11th Annual Photo Contest Winners

It’s been 11 years, yet somehow we never tire of the photo contest here at Scuba Diving magazine. But every now and then, there comes a time for change. Ansel Adams once said, “There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs.” In that spirit, we tweaked our submission categories to recognize photographers adept at conceptual and compact-camera photography. And although the structure might have changed, the heart of our contest has remained the same: viewing the underwater world “Through Your Lens.” We hope you enjoy the show.

To view all photo submissions, click right here.

ONE (1) GRAND PRIZE:

Live-aboard trip to Pulau Weh, Indonesia, aboard the Thailand Aggressor and $1000 cash prize

FOUR (4) FIRST-PLACE PRIZES:

1st Prize Macro: Live-aboard trip on the Turks & Caicos Aggressor
1st Prize Wide-Angle: Live-aboard trip on the Red Sea Aggressor
1st Prize Conceptual: Live-aboard trip on the Carib Dancer
1st Prize Compact Camera: SeaLife Micro HD+ Camera

FOUR (4) SECOND-PLACE PRIZES:

2nd Prize Macro: Scubapro Chromis DC dive computer and Travel Bag
2nd Prize Wide-Angle: Scubapro MK 25 EVO / G260 and Synergy 2 mask
2nd Prize Conceptual: Mares Instinct 12S reg, X-Vu LiquidSkin mask and Ergo Dry snorkel
2nd Prize Compact Camera: SeaLife Sea Dragon 1200 Lumen Light

FOUR (4) THIRD-PLACE PRIZES:

3rd Prize Macro: $250 Backscatter Certificate
3rd Prize Wide-Angle: $250 Backscatter Certificate
3rd Prize Conceptual: $250 Backscatter Certificate
3rd Prize Compact Camera: SeaLife Aquapod Mini and Sea Dragon Mini Lumen Light

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What It’s Like to Rescue a Dusky Shark

Divers Rescue Entangled Dusky Shark In Bahamas

Amanda Cotton

Dusky Shark Rescue

While in Cat Island, Bahamas, these divers helped to free an entangled dusky shark.

Leading a recent shark expedition at Cat Island in the Bahamas, I experienced one of the most extraordinary days in the ocean I’ve ever had.

Diving with silkies and oceanic whitetips, we were horrified to see a large male dusky shark arrive near the boat with a very deep wound around its head. We could see a large rope — presumably discarded fishing gear — tightly wrapped around its neck just behind the gills; one of its pectoral fins was pinned. The shark was incredibly skinny, with a disproportionately huge head on its emaciated body.

Everyone agreed we had to do something. This shark was dying a slow death. But it refused to come in close to the divers.

To our delight, the shark became more comfortable with us as the days progressed — the decision was made that we would attempt to cut of the rope.

Due to safety concerns, we asked our group of divers if they were willing to give up some in-water time so Epic Diving owners Vincent and Debra Canabal and I could attempt this rescue. The group agreed without hesitation and encouraged us to try.

Armed with surgical scissors and cameras, the three of us made our way into the water and were almost im- mediately greeted by the dusky shark, whom we later named Atlas. As it approached Vincent and me, Vincent was able to quickly cut the rope and pull it of Atlas as it rolled, allowing Debra to take photos of the experience. As this happened, the group on the boat erupted in cheers. It was truly a group effort to save this shark, and we were all thrilled to see it swim of, free of the rope.

In the weeks that followed, Atlas returned to Epic Diving’s boat again and again, showing signs of healing and improvement at an astonishing rate.

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LOOK: Diving with a Hammerhead Shark

Hammerhead Shark at Night in Bimini Bahamas

Shane Gross

Location

Bimini, Bahamas

Photographer Shane Gross

About the Shot Lying on my belly at the stern of the boat, I dipped half of my camera into the water, and this magnificent great hammerhead came up toward the surface. To get the shot, I used a Nikon D90 in an Aquatica housing set at f/10, 1/160 sec and ISO 100, a Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens, and two Sea&Sea YS-110a strobes. I exposed for the sunset, and placed one strobe under the water and the other above to illuminate the shark’s dorsal fin.

Go Now Bimini Big Game Club Resort; biggameclubbimini.com

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Video: Manta Flight

Berkley White, owner of Backscatter, shares his meditation on mantas and top shooting techniques.

Q: Where did you shoot your short film Manta Flight?

This sequence was shot in the Maldives a few years ago. I’ve been running small group expeditions to the Maldives over the last five years to photograph hundreds of mantas that gather in the atolls every fall. I made this edit to open the Monterey Underwater Film Festival. I wanted to get people into the zen of underwater so I focused on the slower paced and graceful maneuvers mantas perform around the shallow cleaning stations. Swimming along side these animals is a magical experience. It’s simply amazing how they can glide with such little effort.

Q: What are your secrets for shooting such steady video?

I almost always have lights mounted to my system. I don’t always turn them on, but I find the extra mass slows down camera movement and gives the camera a more solid feel. I helped design the XIT404 Tripod Plate and keep it mounted to the bottom of my housing. When shooting subjects like mantas, I only mount one tripod leg to the plate. I keep this leg extended on the left side of my housing and it allows me to maintain a wide grip with my hands. If your hands are wider than your shoulders you’ll naturally maintain more stable and fluid camera movements. I also use relatively short full foot fins and use a flutter style kick. Large freediving type fins require a long kick stroke and I find this can add a slight left to right tilt of the camera when swimming fast.

Q: What camera and lenses did you use?

This footage was shot on a Canon 1Dx with a Sigma 15mm fisheye lens in a Nauticam Housing. I’ve since upgraded to the Canon 1Dc camera as it offers 4K video recording. I’m a big fan of Canon DSLR cameras for video as they offer excellent white balance underwater. Both of these larger camera bodies allow you to store five different manual white balance settings and I find this invaluable when the action heats up. You can shoot excellent 1080p video with the Canon 5D mkIII, but it does not feature multiple white balance options.

Q: You mentioned lights. Did you use lights for this footage?

I had lights on camera when shooting this footage, but I only turned them on for the long intro sequence to light the glassy sweepers. The majority of the footage is shot with just a manual white balance. I didn’t color correct this sequence it’s just as it came out of the camera. My current wide angle lights are the Keldan Video 8M Lights. They feature a 9000 lumen output and a soft wide beam. 9000 lumens might sound ridiculously bright, but if you shoot much in shallow water you’ll find times when even 9000 lumens can’t out compete the sun. For macro I typically use Sola 2100 Spot / Flood Lights in spot mode. It’s a little tricky to aim a spot from behind the camera, but a spot light doesn’t light up a cluttered background and keeps focus on the subject.

Q: What underwater camera would you recommend to a new photographer on a budget?

You don’t have to spend $2K-$10K on a camera to get great footage and have fun in the process. Good technique is most of the battle. I recommend divers on a budget to read our Best Underwater Compact Cameras of 2015 Review. It helps break down the difference between GoPro cameras, compacts, and mirrorless options. I shoot both stills and video and prefer a camera that handles both modes well. GoPros are a good option for video on a budget, but are less functional when it comes to photos. Thus, I typically recommend people consider compact and mirrorless camera options for better performance and flexibility for both video and photo. Lower cost cameras have more limitations, but great shooting techniques will create amazing results with even the simplest of cameras.

ABOUT BERKLEY WHITE:

Berkley White

Berkley White, owner of Backscatter, shares his meditation on mantas and top shooting techniques.

Berkley White is the founder of Backscatter Underwater Video & Photo which has grown to be the largest underwater photographic equipment supplier is the USA. Since 1994, Backscatter helped develop a community of local cold water divers and has now spent years supporting a thriving tribe of international artists, film makers, and first time shooters from it’s locations in Monterey, California and Derry, New Hampshire in the USA. For more about Backscatter or articles on equipment and technique, please see
www.backscatter.com

Berkley’s images and technical articles are regularly published in international magazines and he regularly serves a photographic judge or technical editor on publications. He is also a major promoter for educational events designed for both industry and consumer users such as the Digital Shootout and the DEMA Imaging Center. To learn more about his intensive educational events, please see www.thedigitalshootout.com.

Berkley runs a limited schedule of exotic photo safaris each year. From the warm diverse waters of Indonesia to the cold adventure of Alaska, Berkley’s shared adventures are always scheduled to be at the best time with the best local knowledge for image makers. For a complete schedule of events, please see his travel company at www.underexposures.com.

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Imaging Tutorial: How To Edit Shark Photos in Adobe Lightroom

Before and After Black and White Conversion

Erin Quigley

Before and After

How to keep your shark photos sharp in post production.

Sharks are a favorite pho-to subject of mine, and I’ve developed a few post-production techniques that help perfect shark images.

1. Desaturate with an Adjustment Brush to remove unwanted color.

Using the Adjustment Brush and Negative Saturation Panel in Lightroom

Step 1

» In the Develop module of Lightroom, click on the Adjustment Brush icon. Slide the Saturation slider to the left to set a high negative value — you’ll finesse this later. You won’t see anything change until you paint with a brush in the image.

» Brush over areas on the shark where you see a blue- green color cast. If you get sloppy with the brush, holding down Opt (Mac) or Alt (PC) gives you a temporary eraser to tidy up.

» Move the Saturation slider back toward the right until you get the result you want.

2. Add Clarity with an Adjustment Brush to enhance pattern and emphasize eyes.

Clarity increases midtone contrast, giving the appearance of added sharpness and punch. Too much Clarity added globally in the Basic panel can make your image look overprocessed, so it’s better to add it locally using Lightroom’s Adjustment Brush and Filters.

» In the Develop module of Lightroom, click on the Adjustment Brush icon. Set a high positive value for Clarity by moving the slider all the way to the right. It doesn’t matter if you set it too high — you’ll dial it back later. You won’t see a change until you paint with the brush in the image.

» Brush over areas that have pattern or texture that you want to emphasize. Locally added Clarity can also work to punch up contrast in light rays. Adjust the slider back down to the level that looks best. You can also add Clarity with the Graduated or Radial filters.

3. Sharpen teeth, not water

How to Sharpen Teeth not Water in Lightroom

Step 3

Sharpening is the process of emphasizing edges. When sharpening gets applied to water, or other areas of flat color, it can do more harm than good. Luckily, Lightroom’s sharpening controls include a tool that lets you apply sharpening to only areas of critical contrast.

» In the Develop module, open the Detail panel.

» After setting the desired values for Amount, Radius and Detail, zoom out so you can see your whole photo. While holding down Opt (Mac) or Alt (PC), click and drag on the Masking slider. At first you’ll see a completely white screen. As you move the slider to the right, some areas be- come gray, and eventually some areas will be black. Where you see white pixels, 100 percent of the sharpen- ing values set in Amount, Radius and Detail are being applied. Gray pixels indicate a lesser value of sharpening, and black means that there’s no sharpening at all. Stop when you can see all critical detail in white, and flat areas in black.

4. Remove bubbles and bait using Content Aware Fill in Photoshop.

» Open your image in Photoshop. With the Lasso tool, draw a loose selection around the object you want to remove. Go to Edit>Fill, and choose Content Aware from the drop-down menu. If you have a Color Adaptation checkbox (Photoshop CC), click it on. Hit OK and watch the magic.

» Content Aware doesn’t always do a perfect job, but it usually gets you most of the way there. Use Photo- shop’s healing and cloning tools to clean up any details.

5. Use the Targeted Adjustment tool in Lightroom for black-and-white conversion.

» In the Develop module, select an image and click on the B&W tab near the HSL panel. The B&W Mix panel will open, and you’ll see Lightroom’s default black-and-white conversion of your image. Although your picture is now black-and-white, the panel sliders correspond to color channels,which makes the editing process nothing better than a guess if you don’t remember which part of your now black-and-white photo used to be a particular color.

» In the upper left corner of the B&W Mix panel is the Targeted Adjustment tool. Click on its icon to activate, and move your cursor into the image. Click and drag up in an area you wish to brighten, and down where you want it darker. It’s just that simple. The Targeted Adjustment tool also exists for the Tone Curve, another panel useful for creating dramatic monochromes.

Want More Tips for Editing Underwater Photos?

Check out Erin’s Tutorial on How To Remove Backscatter, Tips for Adjusting Water Color and Learn How To Make Sexy Black and White Conversions.

Imaging Tutorial: How To Edit Shark Photos in Adobe Lightroom Read More »

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